Most of the old city cafés are veg, and alcohol is not tolerated, but the newer Cantonment area is less constrained by religious mores, and some of the more expensive hotels have bars. After a trip on the boats in the early morning, try kachori , savoury deep-fried pastry bread, a traditional snack found in the old city next to the ghats - but avoid the chai stalls here as the cups are washed in the river. Varanasi is also renowned for its sweets and paan (betel leaf). Bhang , a potent form of cannabis, sometimes mixed in lassis , is available from government-licensed shops, along with weak weed and ropey opium.

 

Stomach disorders are a common phenomenon in Varanasi, so stick to bottled or treated water and be careful when choosing where you eat. In December 1998, two young Irish travellers died from food poisoning here, and allegations have been made suggesting that they were victims of a bizarre scam involving unscrupulous restaurateurs and medical staff poisoning customers in order to claim medical costs from the victim's insurance company. There are some excellent restaurants around, and your hotel restaurant (if it has one) should be fairly safe if only because an entire guesthouse full of dying travellers may arouse suspicion. The Vishnu Rest House on Pandey Ghat does excellent thalis; the Shanti has an extensive menu including a host of Israeli food; and the Yogi Lodge near Vishwanatha temple must have the cleanest kitchen in the old city - all the travellers' favourites but not a lot of spice.

Amrapali , next to the Tourist Bungalow , Parade Kothi, Cantonment. Smart a/c restaurant with very reasonable prices.

Ayyar's Café , Dashaswamedh Road. At the back of a shopping arcade, a small, cheap café serving south Indian food, including masala dosas, filter coffee and delicious milk drinks.

Bread of Life Bakery , B3/322 Shivala. Bakery providing brown bread, cinnamon rolls, muffins and confectionery, with a small clean restaurant serving Western food such as tuna burger and crème caramel. Its not cheap at around Rs200 a head, but it's good for a splurge and the profits go to charity.

El Parador , Maldahia Road. Round the corner from the Tourist Bungalow . Remarkable menu ranging from Mexican to Italian, with good pasta, chocolate cake and pancakes. Popular with travellers but not cheap.

Ganga Fuji , D5/8 Kalika Gali, near Vishwanatha, Dashaswamedh. Odd name for a pleasant little café serving multi-cuisine and with live classical Indian music in the evenings.

Kamesh Hut Garden Restaurant , C27/111 Jagatganj near the Hotel Pradeep . Indian, Chinese and Continental food served either indoors or in their pleasant garden. Reasonable rates.

Keshari , off Dashaswamedh Road, down a small alley beyond the Bank of Baroda building as you approach from the river. Cool clean and very popular with the locals, so arrive early at meal times. Paneer dishes, good-value thalis and pizza.

Madhur Milan Café , Dashaswamedh Road, just past Vishwanatha Lane. Cheap and very popular with locals. Good for samosas, sweets and kachoris .

Poonam , Hotel Pradeep , Jagatganj. Good though expensive Mughlai food served in a comfortable environment.

Sindhi , Bhelupur Thana. One of Varanasi's most popular restaurants, 1.5km from Godaulia. The rickshaw ride (Rs5-10) is rewarded by excellent veg food.

Temple , Hotel Ganges , Bank of Baroda Building, Dashaswamedh Road. Familiar menu with balcony tables overlooking the busy main drag.

Vaatika , Asi Ghat. A leafy terrace right on the ghat serving good pizza to travellers.