Jodhpur's restaurants cater for all tastes and all budgets. Local specialities include mawa sweets and dhood fini , a sweet mixture of wheat strands and milk. The best place to sample these is in shops such as Janta Sweet and Poker Sweet , both on Nai Sarak near the corner of High Court Road (look for the crowds). These places also sell mirchi bada , a chilli in wheatgerm and potato, deep-fried like a pakora , available at samosa stalls elsewhere in Rajasthan, but originally from here.

 

Also worth a visit while you're in Jodhpur is Mohanlal Verhomal's spice shop , at 209-B Kirana Merchant Vegetable Market, near the clock tower (tel 0291/615846, fax 615846). After a cup of appropriately spicy masala chai and a dose of Mr Verhomal's inimitable sales patter, you can select fragrant packets of home-ground spices to be sent home. His "pay-on-receipt" mail-order service is very reliable.

Fort View , on the roof of the Govind hotel , Station Road. A cut above the usual tourist places, with good veg curries, thalis, Chinese food and great views of the fort. It's open round the clock, and you can hang out here while waiting for the bus or train (baggage storage facilities available). Try their sublime makhania lassis .

Josi's , Cosy Guest House , Novechokiya Road, Brahm Puri tel 0291/612066. Nonresidents are welcome to eat on the small but highly atmospheric roof terrace of this family-run guesthouse, in the bluest part of the blue city. Their delicious, inexpensive home-cooked thalis are freshly prepared to order, so phone ahead if you're not staying here.

Marwar , Taj Hari Mahal. The best place in town to sample traditional Marwari cuisine, such as Jodhpuri mas (a spicy mutton dish) or gatta di subzi (its veg equivalent), rounded off with mawa ki kachori (basically chocolate truffle with ice cream). Count on around Rs400-450 per head for two courses.

Mirshi Lal , in the gateway just south of the clock tower. The most famous purveyor of makhania lassi , made with cream, saffron and cardomom, but in fact theirs is rather sickly - the lighter version available at the Fort View restaurant is better.

On the Rocks , Hotel Ajit Bhawan, Airport Road. Delicious evening buffets (7-10.30pm; Rs250) accompanied by live folk music and dance. Buffet lunches also available, but must be pre-booked.

The Pillars , Umaid Bhawan Palace. The veranda café at the maharaja's palace gives you the excuse to wander around the hotel's absurdly grand interior. It's also a relaxing place for a sundowner, with peacocks on the lawn and sweeping views of the distant city. Rs50 cover charge payable on entry.

Poonam , High Court Road. The best south Indian vegetarian in town: huge paper dosas and delicious rawa masala dosas . The generous set dishes are carefully prepared, too, although the enclosed, rather gloomy interior is less than inspiring.