Few visitors who make it as far as Jaisalmer pass up the opportunity to go on a camel trek , which provides an irresistibly romantic chance to cross the barren sands on a sturdy ship of the desert, sleeping under what must rank as one of the starriest skies in the world. Sandstorms, sore backsides and camel farts aside, the safaris are usually great fun.

 

Although you can travel for up to two weeks by camel from Jaisalmer to Bikaner, treks normally last from one to four days, at prices varying from Rs200 to Rs1500 per night. In general the less you spend the less you get, in terms of food, blankets, fitness of camel, and so forth. A lot depends on whether the guides are friendly, how big the group is, and what expectations you have. Freelance camel owners, working for extremely low prices, may stop you in the street and offer their services, but increased demand has resulted in high prices and very poor service from some. All in all, you'll do better to go through an established agency or hotel. We've mentioned a couple of reputable operators, and you should also check with other travellers. Make sure you'll be provided with an adequate supply of blankets, to sleep on and under (it can get very cold at night); a quota of fruit if you're paying anything over the average; and a campfire. As a precaution, have the deal fixed on paper, giving the maximum size of the group, details of the food you'll be getting, transport and anything else you've arranged. If you're only going for a day, none of this applies, but wear a broad-brimmed hat and take high-factor sun-protection lotion.

Following government restrictions on routes , most safaris head west of Jaisalmer through places such as Sam sand dunes, Lodurva, Amar Sagar, Bada Bagh and assorted small villages. Some visitors feel this puts too much emphasis on sightseeing; it's possible to arrange a few days' amble through the desert without stopping at any monuments. Taking a jeep at the start or end of the trek enables you to go further in a short time, and some travellers prefer to begin their trek at Khuhri. Longer treks to Pokaran, Jodhpur or Bikaner can also be arranged. Firms running treks into restricted areas (see Around Jaisalmer) should fix the necessary permits for you, but check in advance.

Thar Safari (tel 0292/54295, fax 52722) in Gandhi Chowk is one of the oldest-established and most reputable agencies , offering a range of safaris, many with tents provided, and reliable guides. They will also organize treks to Jaisalmer from Pokaran if given at least ten days' notice, and are among the few agents genuinely concerned about protecting the desert environment. Less expensive, but equally dependable operators include Sahara Travels in Gopa Chowk near the First Fort gate (tel 02922/52609). Of the hotels which organize camel safaris , Paradise has a deservedly good reputation, while the Jaisal Palace is recommended for short trips (for Rs650-750 you'll be pampered with comfy beds and restaurant-standard food). Among the budget alternatives, the friendly Renuka (see Accommodation) offers excellent value for money. They've been running trips for more than a decade into a stretch of drifting dunes north of Sam that only a couple of other operators are allowed into. This means you can enjoy optimum Thar landscape without the contrived atmosphere that prevails when a dozen or more groups descend on the same patch of desert at the same time.

However much you intend to spend on a trek, don't book anything until you get to Jaisalmer. Unscrupulous touts trawl the train from Jodhpur, and even try to pick up tourists in Udaipur with offers of cheap deals, but they, and the barrage of safari operators at the bus and railway stations, usually represent dodgy outfits, most of which are based at one or other of the small budget hotels north of the fort. Some offer absurdly cheap rooms if you agree to book a camel trek with them, but guesthouse notice boards (not to mention our postbags) are filled with sorry stories by tourists who accepted