Most visitors eat at their hotels or guesthouses while in Bikaner. If you fancy eating out, try Harasar Haveli , which is a popular meeting place for Western travellers and has the best rooftop views.

 

Amber , Station Road. A cleaner than average (although somewhat dingy) thali house that's popular with Westerners. Full veg menu and refreshing masala chai.

Harasar Haveli , near Karni Singh Stadium. Open-air rooftop terrace restaurant with panoramic views, top tandoori and non-veg Mughlai food and cold beers.

Joshi , Station Road. The most salubrious of the eating places near the station. Filling, cheap rice-plate meals and arguably the town's best-value thalis, served in a busy ground-floor restaurant (12.30-3pm & 7.30-10pm); also recommended for paratha -curd breakfasts, from 6am.

Mehfil , Bhanwar Niwas Hotel , old city. Sumptuous veg food stylishly served in evocative fin-de-siècle surroundings. Have a nose around the hotel while you're there. Around Rs200-250 per head.