Camel treks are not as established in Bikaner as they are in Jaisalmer, but the growing numbers of visitors who opt for a safari from here are invariably glad they did so. This eastern part of the desert, while just as scenic as the western Thar, is not nearly as congested with fellow trekkers, with the result that local people in the villages along the route are genuinely pleased and surprised to see you. Wildlife in the area is also abundant, and during a three-day safari you can be pretty sure of spotting demoiselle cranes, black buck, nilgai , desert foxes, monitor lizards and the odd chameleon.

 

When it comes to finding and booking an operator, make sure you know exactly what you're getting for your money, down to the food they plan to serve, and have the details listed in a contract before you part with any cash. You'll also have a much more rewarding time if your guide speaks at least a little English - not always the case. Currently offering the best all-round value safaris out of Bikaner is Vijay Singh Rathore (aka "Camel Man"), based at Vijay Guest House (opposite Sophia School), 5km out of town along the Jaipur road (tel 0151/231244, fax 525150). His itineraries range from half-day trips and village visits to full-blown fourteen-day treks to Jaislamer, complete with camel cart to transport luggage and crash out on (a godsend for novices) and, when within range of Bikaner, fresh ice and drinks delivered to camp by Jeep each evening. The food is also varied and his camel men very experienced. His basic daily rate, which includes all meals, mattresses and travel to and from starting and finishing points, is around Rs450.

Other dependable operators in a similar price bracket, and who get consistently good reviews from readers, include Vino Desert Safari, opposite the Gopeshwar temple (tel 0151/270445, www.vinodesertsafari.com ), and the improbably named Bubble's Safaris, based at the Hotel Harasar Haveli (tel 0151/209891, fax 525150, harasar_haveli@yahoo.com ).