Tickets for the boat trips (daily 7am, 9.30am, 11.30am, 2pm & 4pm; 2hr; Rs40 for lower deck, Rs80 for upper deck) on the lake are sold through the Forest Department at their hatch just above the main visitor centre in Thekkady, above the jetty. If you're on a tight budget, ask at the centre if there are any spaces on the Forestry Commission boat (Rs15), but you'll have to go on the lower deck.

 

Although it is unusual to see many animals from the boats - engine noise and the presence of a hundred other people make sure of that - you might spot a family group of elephants, wild boar and sambar deer by the water's edge. The upper deck is best for game viewing, although the seats are invariably block-booked by the upscale hotels. Turn up half-an-hour early, however, and you may be allocated any no-show places. To maximize your chances of seeing anything, take the 7am boat (wear something warm). At this hour, the mist rises over the lake and hills as you chug past dead trees - now bird perches - never cleared when the valley was flooded. Note that after heavy rain, chances of good sightings are very slim as the animals only come to the lake when water sources inside the forest have dried up.

Trekking in the sanctuary is possible (3hr; Rs350 per group, maximum five people), arranged either through the visitor centre (start 7am) or you can hire private guides, who operate on a more flexible time basis. They'll approach you in Kumily or near the park gates at Thekkady. Guides point out anything of interest, and reassure you that the fresh elephant dung on the path is nothing to worry about. The Forest Department also offers overnight trips and more elaborate week-long programmes. Elephant rides into the park cost Rs30 per head (30min); book at the Forest Department Centre.