The star attraction of Periyar has to be the prospect of staying in the Forest Department
watchtowers , reached by boat from Thekkady and the best way to get a hands-on experience of the jungle. For the
Lake Palace, Periyar House and the
Aranya Nivas you should book in advance at the KTDC offices in Thiruvananthapuram or Ernakulam - essential if you plan to come on a weekend, a public holiday, or during
peak season (Dec-March), when rooms are often in short supply.
Forest Department Rest House , Edappalayam. Very basic accommodation in the woods on the far side of the lake (you have to catch the 4pm boat and then hike, so a guide is recommended). Bring your own food and bedding. Reserve in advance at the Forest Department's Visitors Centre in Thekkady; you'll be lucky to get in at a weekend or in December. Expensive, but it's an unforgettable experience. Rs300-400.
Forest Department Watchtowers , Edappalayam and Manakkavala. Even more primitive than the Rest House , but the best way of sighting game: the towers overlook waterholes in the buffer zone. Book through the Visitors Centre, and take along food, candles, matches, a torch and a sleeping bag and warm clothes. Again, you have to catch the 4pm boat and trek from the jetty, so a guide is useful. Don't consider this if it's been raining, when leeches plague the trail. Rs100-200.
KTDC Aranya Nivas , just above the boat jetty, Thekkady tel 0486/322023, fax 322282. Plusher than Periyar House , a colonial manor with some huge rooms, a pleasant garden, a great swimming pool, an excellent multi-cuisine restaurant, and a cosy bar. Upper deck tickets for two boat trips are included in the tariff. Rs2500 and upwards.
KTDC Lake Palace , across the lake (booked through Aranya Nivas ). The sanctuary's most luxurious hotel with six suites in a converted maharaja's game lodge surrounded by forest, with wonderful views. Charming old-fashioned rooms, great dining and a lovely lawn. This has to be one of the few places in India where you stand a chance of spotting tiger and wild elephant while sipping tea on your own veranda. Full-board only. Rs2500 and upwards.
KTDC Periyar House , midway between the park gates and the boat jetty, Thekkady tel 0486/322026, fax 322526. Comfortable hotel close to the lake, with a restaurant, bar, and balcony overlooking the monkey-filled woods leading down to the waterside. Not as nice a location as its neighbour Aranya Nivas , but then a lot cheaper. Ask for a lake-facing room. Rs900-2500.
