There are numerous backwater routes to choose from, on vessels ranging from local ferries, through chauffeur-driven speedboats offered by the KTDC, to customized kettu vallam and rice boat cruises. The most popular excursion is the full-day journey between Kollam and Alappuzha ; you can cover part or all of the route in a day, returning to your original point of departure by bus during the evening, or, more comfortably, staying the night at either end. All sorts of private hustlers offer their services, but the basic choice lies between boats run by the Alleppey Tourism Development Co-op (ATDC) and the District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC). The double-decker boats leave from both Kollam and Alappuzha daily, departing at 10.30am (10am check-in); tickets cost Rs150 and can be bought in advance or on the day, only at the ATDC/DTPC counters on either of the jetties (beware of unauthorized vendors selling fake tickets). Both companies make three stops during the 8hr journey, including one for lunch, and another at the renowned Mata Amritanandamayi Mission at Amritapuri. Foreigners are welcome to stay at the ashram, which is the home of the renowned female guru, Shri Amritanandamayi Devi, known as the "hugging Mama" because she gives each of her visitors and devotees a big, power-imparting hug during the daily darshan sessions.

 

Although it is by far the most popular backwater trip, many tourists find the Alappuzha-Kollam route too long and at times uncomfortable, with crowded decks and intense sun. There's also something faintly embarrassing about being cooped up with a crowd of fellow tourists madly photographing any signs of life on the water or canal banks, while gangs of kids scamper alongside the boat screaming "one pen! & one pen! &". You can sidestep the tourist scene completely by catching local ferries . These are a lot slower, and the crush can be worse, but you're far less conspicuous than on the ATDC/DTPC boat and you gain a more intimate experience of life on the backwaters. The trip from Alappuzha to Kottayam (11 daily; Rs6) is particularly recommended; the first ferry leaves at 7.30am and the last at 9.30pm. Arrive early so you can get a place on the bow, which affords uninterrupted views. There are also numerous daily ferries that ply routes between local villages, allowing you to hop on and off as you like. The scenery on these routes is more varied than between Alappuzha and Kollam, beginning with open lagoons and winding up on narrow canals through densely populated coconut groves and islands; the tickets cost one tenth of the price of the tourist boats. Whichever boat you opt for, take a sun hat and plenty of water, and check the departure times in advance, as these can vary from year to year.

Groups of up to ten people can charter a kettu vallam moored at Karunagapalli for a day's cruise on the backwaters. The boat has comfortable cane chairs and a raised central platform where passengers can laze on cushions; there's a toilet on board and cool drinks are available. Sections of the curved roof of wood and plaited palms open out to provide shade and allow uninterrupted views. Whether powered by local gondoliers or by sail, the trip is as quiet and restful (at least for the passengers) as you could possibly want. At around Rs3000 for the day, including lunch, the luxury is well worth it. For longer trips you take a kettu vallam that has been converted into a houseboat with one/two bedrooms and a kitchen. A cook will also be provided. To book either, call Tourindia, MG Road, Thiruvananthapuram (tel 0471/331057).

Almost every mid- to top-range hotel situated near the backwaters has its own private kettu vallum boat available for residents to hire. Alternatively, DTPC (tel 0477/251796) and ATDC (tel 0477/243462, www.atdcalleppey.com ) operate fleets (ATDC has fifteen rice boats available, DTPC only three) from Alleppey, and there are dozens of private kettu vallam operators in both Alleppey and Kollam who will arrange a trip if you turn up on spec. However, overnight kettu vallam cruises are not cheap, at Rs3000-5000 for two people for a two- to three-day cruise. Competition is stiff, and private agencies charge very similar prices, although you may be able to haggle the price down slightly, especially in the low season.

As a word of warning, as simple as the life in the backwaters appears to be, take care of your belongings at all times; there have been recent reports of theft, especially during the night when the crew sleep on dry land and the large windows are open. If possible, lock your valuables away (or put them under the bed), and keep belongings away from the windows