Half the fun of visiting Kochi is getting about on the cheap
local ferries . When it's not downright impossible, catching a bus, rickshaw or taxi the long way round to most parts of the city takes much longer and is far less interesting.
Theoretically, the routes below should work in reverse. However, play safe, and don't rely on getting the last boat. A pamphlet giving the exact ferry timings is available from the ticket hatches by the jetties, and from the helpful tourist desk at the Main Boat Jetty in Ernakulam.
Ernakulam to Mattancherry
From Ernakulam (Main Jetty), via Fort Cochin (Customs Jetty), for Chinese fishing nets, St Francis Church, Dutch Cemetery; Willingdon Island (Terminus Jetty); and Mattancherry Jetty for Jewish Synagogue and Dutch Palace. Journey time 20min.
First boat 6am, last 9.10pm.
Ernakulam to Vypeen
From Ernakulam (Main Jetty). This frequent service has two routes: one via Willingdon Island (Embarkation Jetty; 25min), and a fast one to Vypeen (Govt Jetty; 15min).
First boat 7am, every 30min until 9.30pm.
Fort Cochin to Vypeen
From Fort Cochin (Government Jetty) to Vypeen (Government Jetty). Journey time 15 minutes.
First boat 6.30am, every 10min until 9pm.
Willingdon Island to Fort Cochin
From the Tourist Office Jetty (Willingdon Island) to Customs Jetty (Fort Cochin). Journey time 15min.
First boat 6.30am, every 30min until 6.15pm.
Ernakulam to Bolghatty Island
From Ernakulam (High Court Jetty). Journey time 10min.
First boat 6.30am, last 9pm; there are also speedboat taxis (Rs20; free if you are staying at Bolgatty Palace hotel)
Ernakulam to Varapuzha
A local ferry service that provides a chance to see the backwaters if you can't travel further south than Kochi.
Six boats daily, starting at 7.40am until 6.45pm; 2hr each way. There's little to see at Varapuzha, apart from paddy fields and coconuts, so it makes sense to take the 2.30pm boat and stay on it, returning to Ernakulam just after dusk at 6.30pm