Kochi is the only city in the state where you are guaranteed the chance to see live Kathakali , the uniquely Keralan form of ritualized theatre. Whether in its authentic setting, in temple festivals held during the winter, or at the shorter tourist-oriented shows that take place year round, these mesmerizing dance dramas are an unmissable feature of Kochi's cultural life.

 

Four venues in the city hold daily recitals. Beginning at 6.30pm, the hour-long shows are preceded by an introductory talk. You can also watch the dancers being made-up if you arrive an hour or so early. Tickets cost Rs100 and can be bought on the door. Most visitors only attend one show, but you'll gain a much better sense of what Kathakali is all about if you take in at least a couple. Ideally, you should also aim to catch an all-night recital at a temple festival, or at least one of the recitals given by the Ernakulam Kathakali Club (for either contact the Tourist Desk at the Main Boat Jetty, Ernakulam) held once a month. Keen photographers should arrive well before the start to ensure a front-row seat.

Cochin Cultural Centre , Souhardham, Manikath Road (tel 0484/367866). The least commendable option: the dancing at this a/c theatre ("sound-proof, insect-proof, and dust-proof") is accomplished, but performances are short (daily 7pm), with only two characters, and you can't see the musicians. Worst of all, large tour groups monopolize the front seats, and the PA speakers at the back are excruciatingly loud.

Kerala Kathakali Centre , Cochin Aquatic Club, River Road (near the bus stand; (tel 0484/809810), Fort Cochin waterfront. Performed by a company of young graduates of the renowned Kalamandalam Academy, and hugely enjoyable. What the actors may lack in expertise they make up for with enthusiasm, and the small, dilapidated performance space, whose doors open onto the water, adds to the atmosphere. You also get to see three characters, and the music is particularly good.

Dr Devan's Kathakali , See India Foundation, Kalathiparambil Lane, near Ernakulam railway station (tel 0484/369471 or 371759). The oldest-established tourist show in the city, introduced by the inimitable Dr Devan, who steals the stage with his lengthy discourse on Indian philosophy and mythology. Entertaining maybe, but there is too much chat and not enough Kathakali. Daily performance 6.45pm-8pm, although you can watch the make-up session from 6pm.

Art Kerala , Kannanthodathu Lane, Valanjambalam (tel 0484/366238). Near to the See India Foundation, the daily Kathakali performances (make-up 6pm, performance at 7pm) focus on scenes from the big epics such as the Ramayana and the Mahabharatha , which have proved popular with large tour groups so expect a crowd.