Ernakulam
Bimbi's , Shanmugham Road and Jos Junction. Brisk new Indian-style fast-food joints. Hugely popular for inexpensive Udupi, north Indian and Chinese snacks and meals, and the tangiest wada-sambars in town. They also do a great selection of shakes and ice creams.

The Brasserie , Taj Residency , Marine Drive. Luxury coffee shop serving pricey snacks and a particularly good range of Western cakes (Dundee, plum, palmettes and fudge).

Caravan , Broadway, near the KTDC tourist office. A/c ice-cream parlour that's a good place to chill out over a banana split or milkshake. Open until midnight so you can nip in for a late dessert.

Domino's , Esplanade Complex, Canal Road (free delivery tel 1600-111-123). Pizzas here all come with extra chilli and the topping options reflect Keralan cuisine. They will deliver to your hotel. Baskin Robbins ice-cream parlour is in the same complex if you want to go the whole hog.

Four Foods , Shanmugham Road. Busy, clean and popular roadside restaurant serving veg and non-veg meals, including blow-out thalis and good-value "dish of the day". For dessert, try their Mumbai-style faloodas , vermicelli steeped in syrup with dry fruits and ice cream.

Fry's Village Restaurant , adjacent to Mymoor Cinema, Chittoor Road. Moderately priced, ultra-spicy Keralan and "ethnic" specialities you rarely find served in such style, including the Calicut Muslim delicacy patthri , wafer-thin rice pancakes, idliappam dumplings, and puthoo , steamed rice cakes.

Indian Coffee House , corner of MG Road and Durbar Hall Road. The usual excellent coffee (ask for "pot coffee" if you don't want it with sugar) and simple snacks such as dosa and scrambled egg. There's another branch at the corner of Canon Shed Road and Park Ave.

Lotus Cascades , Woodlands Hotel , Woodlands Junction, MG Road. Classy veg Indian food, with plenty of tandoori options, at bargain prices. Great service, too. Recommended.

Pandhal , MG Road. Very smart upmarket restaurant, serving excellent Keralan fish dishes as well as good north Indian cuisine and a sprinkling of continental food.

Sealord , Shanmugham Road. Pricey rooftop restaurant serving good Chinese, Indian and sizzlers - but the portions are not too generous, and the view is not what it was since the shopping centre opposite was built. Great for a beer, though.

Utsav , Taj Residency , Marine Drive. Expensive à la carte Indian restaurant. The Rs200 lunchtime buffets are better value and you get a matchless view over the harbour and bay at noon. At night, the twinkling lights make this the place for a very romantic dinner.

Fort Cochin
Addy's , Elphinstone Road. Open 8am until midnight, in a lovely rambling seventeenth-century house, with lanterns, gingham cloths and loads of family atmosphere. The place gets enthusiastic reviews, with a high entertainment rating and praise for the meat dishes in particular, although Keralan dishes and fresh fish are also on the menu.

Brunton Boatyard , next to Fort Cochin Jetty. The expensive menu comprises a wonderful collection of dishes designed to reflect all the cultural influences that that have played a part in the history of Cochin: Lebanese, Portuguese, British Raj, Dutch, Jewish, and of course, Keralan. Unfortunately, it is à la carte and you end up just wanting to try everything.

Chariot Beach , Princess Street. Huge seafood and Chinese menu, at reasonable prices, and you can eat alfresco on their small terrace.

Elite , Princess Street. Popular and lively haunt for both travellers' and locals as it's so cheap. However, as a place to eat, the café has had mixed reviews.

Kashi Art Café , Burgher Street. Great café and exhibition space in a restored old building with a cosmopolitan yet zen-like atmosphere. A good place to check the notice boards, learn about local campaigns, and just find some tranquil space. Healthy light meals, cakes, an excellent breakfast and wonderful coffees are served all day.

Seagull , Calvetty Road. Average restaurant, in good location overlooking the water. Their seafood in Chinese sauces is particularly tasty, but be prepared for a long wait. Serves beer and spirits.

Willingdon Island
Fort Cochin , Casino Hotel , Willingdon Island tel 0484/668 8421. This seafood restaurant is considered to be one of the best in India. You choose from the catch of the day and then you choose the style of cooking, which is all done in front of you. Delicious maybe, but it's very expensive, claustrophobic, and the decor is dull.

Taj Malabar , Willingdon Island tel 0484/666811. Two restaurants: the Jade Pavilion for Chinese, and Rice Boats serving Western, north Indian and Keralan dishes in a beautiful waterside location. The food is excellent and prices reflect this; the Rs200 lunchtime buffet is varied and good value.