By ferry
If auto-rickshaws are the quintessentially Indian mode of transport, flat-bottomed ferries are their Goan equivalent. Crammed with cars, buses, commuters on scooters, fisherwomen and clumps of bewildered tourists, these rusting blue-painted hulks provide an essential service, crossing the coastal backwaters where bridges have not yet been built. They're also incredibly cheap, and run from the crack of dawn until late in the evening. The most frequented river crossings in Goa are Panjim to Betim, across the Mandovi (every 15min); Old Goa to Divar Island (every 15min); Siolim to Chopdem, across the Chapora River for Arambol and Pernem (every 15min); Querim to Terekol, over the Terekol River (every 30min); and Cavelossim, in the far south of Salcete, to Assolna (every 20-30min).

By train
Following years of controversy, the Konkan Railway was completed in 1997, running down the coast from Mumbai to link with the southern rail network at Mangalore. This now serves as Goa's principal long-distance transport artery, but is rarely convenient for shorter journeys within the state. The relative infrequency of services and distance of the line from most of the resorts means you're invariably better off catching the bus.

By bus
The Goan transport corporation, Kadamba , runs long-distance services throughout the state from their main stands at Panjim, Mapusa and Margao. Private buses, serving everywhere else including the coastal resorts, are cheap, frequent, and more relaxed than many in India, although you should still brace yourself for a crush on market days and when travelling to major towns and tourist centres. Details on how to get around by bus are listed in the relevant accounts.

By motorcycle taxi
Goa's unique pillion-passenger motorcycle taxis , known locally as "pilots" , are ideal for nipping between beaches or into town from the resorts. Bona fide operators ride black bikes (usually Rajdoots) with yellow mudguards and white number plates. Fares, which should be settled in advance, are comparable with auto-rickshaw rates: roughly Rs5 per kilometre.

By rented motorcycle
Renting a motorcycle in Goa gives a lot of freedom but can be perilous. Every season, an average of one person a day dies on the roads; many are tourists on two-wheelers. Make sure, therefore, that the lights and brakes are in good shape, and be especially vigilant at night: many Goan roads are appallingly pot-holed and unlit, and stray cows and bullock carts can appear from nowhere.

Officially, you need an international driver's licence to rent, and ride, anything more powerful than a 25cc moped. Owners and rental companies rarely enforce this, but some local police use the rule to extract exorbitant baksheesh from tourists. If you don't have a licence with you, the only way around the problem is to avoid big towns such as Panjim, Margao and Mapusa (or Anjuna on market day), and only to carry small sums of money when driving. If you are arrested for not having the right papers, it's no big deal, though police officers may try to convince you otherwise; keep cool, and be prepared to negotiate. Some unlicensed operators attempt to rent out machines to unwary visitors; always make sure you get some evidence of rental and insurance.

Rates vary according to the season, the vehicle, and how long you rent it for; most owners also insist on a deposit and/or passport as security. The range is pretty standard, with the cheapest choice, a 50cc moped , costing Rs100 per day. These are fine for buzzing to the beach and back, but to travel further try the stalwart Enfield Bullet 350cc , popular mainly for its pose value (upwards of Rs250 per day); the smaller but more reliable Honda Kinetic 100cc , which has automatic gears and is a good first-time choice (Rs150-200/day); or the best all-rounder, the Yamaha RD 100cc : light, fast enough, reliable, economical and with manual gears (Rs150-225/day). The notoriously unreliable Indian makes, Rajdoot and Bajaj , are best avoided.

Tours
On paper, GTDC's guided tours from Panjim, Margao, Calangute and Colva seem like a good way of getting around Goa's highlights in a short time. However, they're far too rushed for most foreign tourists, appealing essentially to Indian families wishing to combine a peek at the resorts with a whistle-stop puja tour of the temples around Ponda. Most also include a string of places inland that you wouldn't otherwise consider visiting. Leaflets giving full itineraries are available at any GTDC office, where you can also buy tickets: full-day tours cost Rs95.