Buses
Despite running more than three hundred different routes, the Delhi Transport Corporation's vast centralized bus network can seem totally inadequate. The Latest Guide to Delhi, Old, and New (published by Lal Chand and Sons; Rs10) is in English and has the most comprehensive DTC bus route listings available. You can buy it from magazine vendors in Connaught Place or Paharganj. The first digit of each three-digit route number shows the direction of each bus - thus routes starting with "5" head south from the centre towards Mehrauli, and those starting with "4" travel southeast towards Kalkaji through Nizamuddin, while those starting with "1" go north through Old Delhi.

Specific services useful for tourists include #454 between Connaught Place and Nizamuddin, #505 from Ajmer Gate to Mehrauli and the Qutb Minar, #602 and #620 to Chanakyapuri, and #101 and #139 between the Regal Cinema bus stand (beside Park Hotel ) and the Red Fort. Another handy route is #450 from Paharganj, via Connaught Place and India Gate, to Lodi Road, near Tibet House and Lodi Gardens. Night buses start with the digit "0", such as #055 which passes Nizamuddin on its way to Connaught Place. All buses are liable to get hideously overcrowded - women travellers will appreciate the row of seats which is reserved exclusively for their use.

Minibuses and private buses, such as the " Green " and the slightly more expensive " White " lines ply many of the same routes, and are often less congested. A Ring Service runs around the Ring Road, both clockwise (marked with a "+") and anti-clockwise ("-"). Railway specials connect outlying stations with the centre; the #42 to Tughluqabad is handy for visitors to the ancient fort. The most useful service however, is provided by the maroon-coloured minibuses of the Phatphat Seva that run from Palika Bazaar to Old Delhi. This service replaced the majestic old Harley-Davidson motorcycle taxis (hence "phatphat") which plied this route for years until forced off the streets by Delhi's new antipollution traffic laws, which forbid vehicles over ten years old.

Auto-rickshaws and cycle rickshaws
Auto-rickshaws (or "autos") - scooters converted into three-wheeler taxis - can be extremely useful in Delhi's chaotic traffic, though they catch the worst of the polluting exhaust fumes since their open sides are level with larger vehicles' exhaust pipes. Autos are now, however, finding themselves in the forefront of the recent ecological drive, with most new vehicles being fitted with natural gas-powered engines instead of the old diesel ones. In theory autos should charge what's shown on the meter, but even on the rare occasions when their meters are working, the rates tend to be out of date, and liable to supplements according to a table which drivers are required to carry but sometimes don't. For most journeys, it's simplest just to agree on a price before you set out; by way of example, at the time of writing, Paharganj to Connaught Place cost Rs20 maximum, while Red Fort to Connaught Place is more like Rs40. Try to avoid catching the rickshaws that hang around major tourist centres: even crossing the road from a hotel entrance can make for a better price.

Cycle rickshaws are not allowed in Connaught Place and parts of New Delhi, but are handy for short routes in outlying areas and in Paharganj, and nippier than motorized traffic in Old Delhi. Serious bargaining is required to get the going rate, which should be much less than an auto.

Taxis
Black and yellow taxis , which charge around fifty percent more than auto-rickshaws - thus Red Fort to Connaught Place costs in the region of Rs80 - are considered to be the most reliable mode of transport. Drivers belong to local taxi stands, where you can make bookings and fix prices; if you flag a taxi down on the street you're letting yourself in for some hectic haggling. Between 11pm and 5am, there is a surcharge of around 25 percent. A new service, Dial-a-Cab (tel 1920), offers convenience and luxury with air-conditioned cars and tamper-proof digital meters, but at a price.

Car and cycle rental
For local sightseeing and journeys beyond the city confines, the cheapest and most reliable outlets for chauffeur-driven cars are the tourist office, 88 Janpath, and the booths at the southern end of the Tibetan Market on Janpath, most of which are willing to negotiate a price. Expect to pay from Rs500 a day which includes 80km mileage; in the high season the price rises to around Rs800 a day. Private travel agencies throughout Delhi usually charge more. If you want the option of self-drive , and don't mind paying extra to brave Delhi's notoriously dangerous roads, try Budget, G3 Arunchal Building, Barakhamba Road (tel 011/331 8600), which charges from $50 per day for self-drive and $70 for a chauffeur. Other international names include Europcar Inter Rent (tel 011/641 1601) and Hertz (tel 011/619 7188). Alternatively, Wheels, 4-5 Kanchenjunga Building, Barakhamba Road (tel 011/331 8695), offer slightly lower self-drive rates from around $40 per day.

Cycling in the large avenues of New Delhi takes some getting used to and can be dangerous for those not used to chaotic traffic. Bicycle rental is surprisingly difficult to come by; try Mehta Cycles at 5109/10 Main Bazaar, Paharganj, next door but one to the Khosla Café .

City and regional tours
The Government of India tourist office, 88 Janpath, organizes a/c bus tours of New Delhi (daily 8am-1pm; Rs147) and Old Delhi (daily 2.15pm-5pm; Rs126), and a combined tour of Old and New Delhi (8am-5pm; Rs231). All start at ITDC Indraprastha , Janpath; their tailor-made packages including a guide cost Rs950 for a whole day. Tours are also available to Agra, Jaipur and Haridwar/Rishikesh. Similarly, along with long-distance tours, the DTTDC, Bombay Life Building, Middle Circle (tel 011/331 4229) also offer city tours: their half-day tour costs Rs95 (non a/c) and Rs110 (a/c) while the whole-day tour option is Rs180/Rs210. The Metropolis Hotel in Paharganj, amongst others, runs good-value bus tours around Delhi and further afield, and all the five-star hotels offer their own, more expensive packages.