Although trains are the definitive form of transport in India, and generally more comfortable than buses , there are places (such as most Himalayan valleys) where trains don't go, where they are inconvenient, or where buses are simply faster (as in most of Rajasthan and other places without broad-gauge track). Buses go almost everywhere, more frequently than trains (though mostly in daylight hours).

 

Services vary somewhat in price and standards. Government-run ramshackle affairs, packed to the gunnels with people, livestock and luggage, cover most routes. In addition, popular trunk routes between large cities, towns and resorts are usually covered by private buses . These tend to be more comfortable, with extra legroom, tinted windows and padded reclining seats. In some states, notably Rajasthan, they are also considerably cheaper. Smaller private bus companies may be only semi-legal and have little backup in case of breakdown.

The description of the service usually gives some clue about the level of comfort. "Ordinary" buses usually have minimally padded, bench-like seats with upright backs. "Deluxe" or "luxury" are more or less interchangeable terms but sometimes the term deluxe signifies a luxury bus past its sell-by date; occasionally a bus will be described as a "2 by 2" which means a deluxe bus with just two seats on either side of the aisle. When applied to government services, these may hardly differ from "ordinary" buses, but with private companies, they should guarantee a softer, individual seat. It's worth asking when booking if your bus will have a video or music system (a "video bus"), as their deafening noise ruins any chances of sleep. Always try to avoid the back seats - they accentuate bumpy roads.

Luggage travels in the hatch of private buses - for which you will have to part with about Rs5 as "security" for the safekeeping of your bags. On state-run buses, you can usually squeeze it into an unobtrusive corner, although you may sometimes be requested to have it travel on the roof (you may be able to travel up there yourself if the bus is too crowded, though it's dangerous and illegal); check that it's well secured (ideally, lock it there) and not liable to get squashed. Baksheesh is in order for whoever puts it up there for you.

Buying a bus ticket is usually less of an ordeal than buying a train ticket, although at large city bus stations there may be twenty or so counters, each assigned to a different route. When you buy your ticket you'll be given the registration number of the bus and, sometimes, a seat number. As at railway stations, there is usually a separate, quicker, ladies' queue, although the sign to indicate it may not be in English. You can always get on ordinary state buses without a ticket, and at bus stands outside major cities you can usually only pay on board, so you have to be sharp to secure a seat. Prior booking is usually available and preferable for express and private services and it is a good idea to check with the agent exactly where the bus will depart from. You can usually pay on board private buses too, though that reduces your chances of a seat.