An hour's boat ride from Colaba, the tranquil, forested island of ELEPHANTA is one of the most atmospheric places in Mumbai. Populated only by a small fishing community, it makes a wonderful contrast to the seething claustrophobia of the city, even when crowded with day-trippers at weekends. Originally known as Gharapuri , the "city of Ghara priests", the island was renamed in the sixteenth century by the Portuguese in honour of the carved elephant they found at the port. Its chief attraction is its unique cave temple , whose massive Trimurti (three-faced) Shiva sculpture is as fine an example of Hindu architecture as you'll find anywhere.

 

"Deluxe" boats set off from the Gateway of India (Oct-May hourly 9am-2.30pm; Rs85 return including government guide); book through the kiosks near the Gateway of India. Ask for your guide at the caves ticket office on arrival - they take about thirty minutes. Ordinary ferries (Rs65 return), also from the Gateway of India, don't include guides, and are usually packed. The journey takes about an hour on either boat.

Cool drinks and souvenir stalls line the way up the hill, and at the top, the MTDC Chalukya restaurant offers food and beer, and a terrace with good views out to sea, but you cannot stay overnight on the island.