Buses
BEST (Bombay Electric Supply and Transport; 24hr information line tel 022/414 3611) operates a bus network of labyrinthine complexity, extending to the furthest-flung corners of the city. Unfortunately, neither route booklets, maps nor "Point to Point" guides (which you can consult at the tourist office or at newsstands) make things any clearer. Finding out which bus you need is difficult enough. Recognizing it in the street can be even more problematic, as the numbers are written in Maharathi (although in English on the sides). Aim, wherever possible, for the "Limited" services, which stop less frequently, and avoid rush hours at all costs. Tickets should be bought from the conductor on the bus.

Trains
Mumbai would be paralysed without its local trains , which carry millions of commuters each day between downtown and the sprawling suburbs in the north. One line begins at VT, running up the east side of the city as far as Thane. The other leaves Churchgate, hugging the curve of Back Bay as far as Chowpatty Beach, where it veers north towards Mumbai Central, Dadar, Santa Cruz and Vasai, beyond the city limits. Services depart every few minutes from 5am until midnight, stopping at dozens of small stations. Carriages remain packed solid virtually the whole time, with passengers dangling precariously out of open doors to escape the crush, so start to make your way to the exit at least three stops before your destination. The apocalyptic peak hours are worst of all. Women are marginally better off in the "ladies carriages"; look for the crowd of saris and salwar kamises grouped at the end of the platform.

Taxis
With rickshaws banished to the suburbs, Mumbai's ubiquitous black-and-yellow taxis are the quickest and most convenient way to nip around the city centre. In theory, all should have meters and a current rate card (to convert the amount shown on the meter to the correct fare); in practice, particularly at night or early in the morning, many drivers refuse to use them. If this happens, either flag down another or haggle out a fare. As a rule of thumb, expect to be charged Rs5 per kilometre after the minimum fare of around Rs13, together with a small sum for heavy luggage (Rs5 per article). The latest addition to Mumbai's hectic roads is the cool cab , a blue taxi that boasts air-conditioning, and charges higher rates for the privilege.

Boats
Ferryboats regularly chug out of Mumbai harbour, connecting the city with the far shore and some of the larger islands in between. The most popular with visitors is the Elephanta Island launch which departs from the Gateway of India. Boats to Mandve (9 daily; 6.30am-6.15pm; 90min; Rs40), for Alibag, the transport hub for the rarely used coastal route south , leave from the Gateway of India

Car rental
Cars with drivers can be rented per eight-hour day (Rs800-1000 for a non-a/c Ambassador, upwards of Rs1200 for more luxurious a/c cars), or per kilometre, from ITDC. They have an (occasionally) staffed counter at the Government of India tourist office and on the eleventh floor of the Nirmal Building at Nariman Point. Otherwise, go through any good travel agent. Ramniranjan Kedia Tours and Travels (tel 022/437 1112) are recommended if you want to book a vehicle on arrival at Sahar international airport.

Self-drive is also now available in Mumbai, though the service seems to be intended more for middle-class Indians out to impress their friends ("They'll never know it's rented!"), than tourists. You will be a lot safer if you leave the driving to someone more at home with the city's racetrack rules of the road. If you are willing to risk it, Autoriders International Ltd (in association with Hertz) at 139 Auto World, Tardeo Road (tel 022/496 1714, fax 492 1172), or Avis (tel 022/285 7327, ) in the Oberoi are recommended.