India's most famous monument became the centre of heated controversy in December 2000, when the Agra Municipality and Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) jointly imposed a "hike" in admission charges from Rs15 to a whopping Rs960 for a day ticket. The increase only applies to foreigners; Indian visitors pay Rs10.

 

Further disputes followed the announcement in January, 2001, that the Taj would be closed on Fridays (instead of Mondays, as it had been previously) - a move strongly resisted by Agra's vociferous Muslim community, many of whom visit the Taj to pray on the Islamic sabbath. The profit-boosting measures would, it was claimed, generate revenue for "essential renovation work". Few in the local tourist industry, however, take such reassurances seriously. In a city renowned throughout India for its corrupt politicians, little of the extra cash is likely to be "ploughed back into the upkeep of the Taj", or any other of the 3606 monuments on India's critical list. Nor, if the authority's track record is anything to go by, will much of it be spent improving access roads and beautifying the green belt around the complex to reduce the damaging effects on the building of traffic pollution.

Galling though this price increase is, comparatively few visitors refuse to pay it; fewer still regard the expense as money wasted once they are inside. That said, foreign tourists these days rarely visit the Taj on several consecutive days. To appreciate the famous play of light on the building, you'll have to stick around from dawn until dusk (ticket valid all day, but only for one entrance). Thankfully, the gardens are the most blissful place to spend a day in Agra. Hawkers and salesmen are not allowed in, and official guides are not available on site, so no one is likely to pester you while you're dozing or reading on the lawns.

The only ways to see the Taj for free are by climbing onto a Taj Ganj hotel rooftop, or, better still, by heading across the Yamuna to Katchpura village. From the opposite bank of the river, where Shah Jahan planned to erect his mirror-image "Black Taj", the view is breathtaking, especially at dawn. Boats ferry foot passengers across from the ghats just east of the Taj at first light, charging what they can get away with (anything from Rs100 to Rs1000, depending on the size of your camera). Alternatively, hire a rickshaw-wallah for the trip, or cycle there yourself. Cross the river on the road bridge north of Agra Fort, and turn right when you reach the far bank, following the metalled road until it enters the village of Katchpura, where it becomes a rough track that eventually emerges at a small Dalit shrine on the riverside, directly opposite the Taj. The Municipality is supposed to be developing this area, with floodlights and walkways, but for the time being you should have it pretty much to yourself.